What to Do in Porto Santo

The last time I came back from Porto Santo, I sat behind a young Spanish couple on a videocall, speaking loud enough to be heard by half the boat. They were calling their parents, I believe, and at a certain point they were describing Porto Santo as “tercer-mundista” (third wordly). At that point they must’ve finally understood that everyone could hear what they were saying, and they switched to haphazardly Catalan.

I was personally offended by the comment. Porto Santo is not third-wordly; and they certainly did not get a rash “from ice”. Porto Santo is as modern as you can expect from an island that is only inhabited all year round by 5.000 people: there’s high-speed internet, a health centre opened 24/7, one pharmacy, and several local restaurants and bars. But of course, there are no iced lattes or convenience stores.

In my opinion, that’s Porto Santo’s charm. It’s a place where time seems to have stopped somewhere in the 90s or early 00s, when the biggest hotels were built. The décor is passé, food trends are alien, and locals will recognise you the third time you pop in for coffee. Likewise, its main attraction, the beach, remains untouched. The changing rooms are vintage at best, and there are no privatised stretches of coastline or sunbeds for rent. 

Granted, islands have their own time and move at their own pace. In Porto Santo, days may feel like they have 25 hours instead. But that’s a good thing! The whole island will embrace you in its safety, invite you to relax, to let go of whatever worries you left at home, and walk around in loungewear. Every time I go to Porto Santo, I never feel like something is missing. On the contrary, I feel I have exactly what I need – just enough. 

So, as long as you embrace the pace of the island, you’ll love it. The sea is warm, the sand is thin, the fish is fresh (but there’s vegetarian options too!), the fruits are super sweet, and the night breeze gives you a reprieve from the scorching afternoon sun. All you can possibly need is there: if it’s not, maybe you need to do some soul-searching. And without further ado, here’s what to do and what to see in Porto Santo, Madeira. 

The beach 

The beach is Porto Santo’s main attraction and, honestly, it’s “the” beach. When you’ve been in Madeira for as long as I have, you get used to the pebble beaches and their deep, often surprising inclination. But there comes Porto Santo, with its warm, thin sand and clear waters, a true infinity pool where you can swim for ages. And the best part: it’s free, accessible to everyone, and kid-friendly. 

However, if you’re not content with a relaxing day at the beach, take a guided snorkeling tour to explore submarine life in Porto Santo. If you watched “My Octopus Teacher”, I’m sure you’ll love this experience. For more adventurous divers, there’s also a diving center that offers a complete diving package to the Madeirense and Corveta Pereira D’Eça shipwrecks just off the coast. 

Pico do Castelo

Here’s a fun fact not a lot of people know. Vila Baleira, the only settlement in Porto Santo, doesn’t have that name because of whale (baleia) hunters. (We left all of that for the Azoreans.) Rather, its namesake are the bullets (balas) that settlers threw from the height of Pico do Castelo (which, spoiler alert, doesn’t have a castle), to try and deter any approaching pirate ships. So, needless to say, this is the best viewpoint of the island.

The Dunes

Sure, you can see dunes elsewhere. Yet you cannot go to Porto Santo and miss these fossilised corals (which is what they are, technically). You’ll realise nature really is the wisest designer in the world: these dunes were made millions of years ago, and they’re still in fashion. Plus, all of the sudden, you’ll feel like you’ve left your oasis in Vila Baleira and landed in the middle of the Sahara. 

If you have enough time, you can also look for off-road tours, either on a buggy or on a 4x4, to explore the Porto Santo Dunes. It's not exactly cheap (buggy tours in Porto Santo start at 160€ for two people) but it’s a once in a lifetime experience, at least if you’re not planning on joining the Paris-Dakar. Besides, it's one of the greatest activities you can do when the sea is rougher.  

Fonte da Areia 

Another favourite of mine in Porto Santo is an area known as Fonte da Areia. Apart from being an old water fountain where people would wash their clothes (I can just imagine them gossiping and fighting for the tanks with the most water!), it’s also an amazing view point. You can see clearly all the layers in the rocks, and the cliffs emerge one after another as colossal monuments. 

Pico de Ana Ferreira

Here’s another fun fact: Porto Santo is way older than Madeira. The island was formed 18 million years ago, while Madeira only emerged from the seabed 5 to 5.6 million years ago. This makes it a whole geological monument, and you don’t even need to be a geology geek to appreciate the striking set of prismatic columns at Pico de Ana Ferreira, which look like an organ-pipe arrangement. If I didn’t know better, I’d think it was man-made!

Miradouro das Flores

The Flores viewpoint, overlooking Porto Santo’s islets, takes the crown as my absolute favourite. The sea just seems a tad more turquoise on that tip (you can even see it from the plane), and seeing it from above it’s just breath-taking. Plus, on a clear day, you can also spot the Desertas and Madeira, giving you a view over the whole archipelago. So, as far as I’m concerned, it’s a strong contender for the best viewpoint in the whole region.

The windmills 

Okay, so we’ve had paradise at the beach, medieval vibes at the castle that’s not a castle, desert at the dunes, and now… Castilla y la Mancha with Quijote-worthy windmills. Sure, it’s something you see in a mere 5 minutes, but it is a testament to Porto Santo’s versatility and unexpected ways. The windmills along the palm-tree lined road have all been restored, and it makes for a great postcard.

Quinta das Palmeiras

Quinta das Palmeiras looks like an oasis in the middle of the island. Generally, I’m not one to recommend zoos and, if you’re not comfortable seeing birds in cages, cross this off your list. However, there is a small snack-bar, peacocks roaming free, a koi pond, swans, and a small space for children. In my experience, kids and teens enjoy the experience and it’s one of their favourite activities in Porto Santo. 

Finally, the food

The first time I went to Porto Santo, I was worried about the food. I feel like it was a legitimate concern: it’s a small island with limited options. But for such a small island with so little agriculture, Porto Santo packs a punch and surprises you. In the 5 or 6 restaurants locals recommend, fish and seafood are the star of the show (scabbard, fresh tuna, octopus, lapas), yet there are also regional meat and even game dishes. And let’s not forget that it’s the home of bolo do caco.

Unlike Madeira, Porto Santo it’s not action-packed, filled with strenuous hikes or radical experiences. It’s not filled with 5-star hotels or fine dining experiences either. On the contrary, it’s an invitation to wind-down and appreciate what nature kindly offers us: the sea, the sand, the rocks, the late Summer prickly pears. If you embrace that pace, you can’t tell me it is not a rejuvenating experience. And that’s…Porto Santo!

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