Are the levadas dangerous? How to Hike Safely in Madeira
Madeira has earned a reputation as a hiker’s paradise. Our hills sport endless green mountain ridges, waterfalls and unique, ancient water channels known as the levadas, which serve as walking trails. But, every now and then, a hiker goes missing. The most recent case involved a hiker missing for a week, who was later found dead. Earlier this year, a French couple vanished and were found off-path days later.
These stories are heartbreaking — and how often does this happen? Are the Madeira levadas dangerous? And how can you stay safe while hiking in Madeira?
What are the levadas, really?
The levadas are irrigation channels and aqueducts. They total over 3.000 kms, on an island that’s only 57 km long and 22 km wide. Their purpose is distributing water from the Northern part of the island, which is greener, lushier and rainier, to the dried Southern coast. As you can imagine, it took quite a lot of engineering to build these water channels, along with cheap labour and, in the beginning, slave workers.
In short, these levadas were never meant to become hyped trails and hikes visited by hundreds. Instead, they were carved into the cliffs without any protection rails – workplace safety was not big in the 15th and 16h centuries – leaving you exposed to the elements and relying only on your dexterity. A single misstep, especially when the terrain is slippery, can end badly.
Some trails are harder than others, of course. Some levadas pose a challenge even to very experienced hikers. Others, like Balcões, are fairly safe, appropriate for almost anyone and open all year round. So take the difficulty level into consideration when choosing where to go. Here’s the difficulty levels for some of the most popular levadas in Madeira:
Vereda do Areeiro – just 7 km that will take you at least 3:30 hours to complete. Visit Madeira considers this a medium difficulty trail. I wouldn’t advise it to people who’re afraid of heights, and there are a lot of stairs as well. However, being one of the most popular hikes in Madeira, it does have protection rails and you’ll never be alone.
Vereda da Encumeada – a little over 11 km long, you can start from Casa de Abrigo do Pico Ruivo. Medium difficulty, taking somewhere between 5 to 6 hours.
Levada das 25 Fontes/ Risco/ Rabaçal – almost 9 km (roundtrip), it’s a medium difficulty levada that will take you just three hours to complete, making it a perfect morning activity. It’s parallel to Levada do Risco, which is shorter (only 3 km) and considered easy.
Levada do Alecrim – another easy levada, this time in the Calheta area. It path is somewhat narrow at certain points, but it’s mostly okay. Takes less than three hours to complete.
Levada do Moinho/ Levada Nova – the most famous levada in Ponta do Sol. The Levada do Moinho is considered medium difficulty. The Levada Nova has several steep parts without any protection rails, so I only recommend it to experienced hikers.
Caldeirão Verde – one of the most famous levadas in Madeira, starting in Parque das Queimas, it will take you a whole day (almost 7 hours) to complete, so it requires stamina and balance. Alternatively, you can take the “Caminho para Todos” at Parque das Queimadas, which is an easy 45 minute trail anyone can tak, even wheelchair users!
Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço – it’s one of the hikes I recommend the most, but it’s medium difficulty. Despite only being 6 km (roundtrip), it has no shade, so it can get terribly hot. Usually people take 3 hours to complete it – but the good news is that you can stop at the café before coming back.
What Happens When there’s an Accident in a Levada?
Levadas are located in remote parts of the island where cars don’t go. Usually you can take a car up to the starting and ending point of the levadas, but there are no roads in between. This means you may be a 3 or 4 hours away from actual help. Obviously, Madeira’s civil protection teams are used to the terrain and they’re often able to find people and rescue them using helicopters. But not always.
If you’ve never visited Madeira, it’s hard to imagine. However, when someone falls from a levada trail, they may slip into inaccessible forest areas where visibility is low. Even with a location provided by a smart watches or phones, things aren’t that simple – phones give an indication of the area, but not the altitude. That’s why many hikers have been hard to locate, despite having their phones and other gadgets.
Rescue operations are even harder when tourists decide to go off the beaten path or visit trails that are currently closed (hint: when a trail is closed, it’s either due to the weather or because there has been a landslide.) Therefore, the local government decided it would start charging tourists for recue operations on closed hikes or off-trail locations. So far, until October, there have been at least 12 rescue missions on trails that were closed off.
How can you hike safely in Madeira?
Always beware that Madeira’s beauty hides its risk. Trails can look easy at the start, but often become harder, narrower, and steeper as you go inland. If at any moment you feel unsure of where the path is taking you, turn back. Likewise, the weather can be deceiving as well. Clear skies can turn into fog and rain within minutes, and visibility can decrease very quickly. Therefore, always pack an extra jacket and a lantern. And finally, remember that wildfires have worsened landslides in quite a few areas, so avoid those.
If you want to hike in Madeira, it’s advisable to:
Check trail conditions at visitmadeira.pt. The regional tourism board updates closures, warnings, and weather alerts. If a levada is listed as closed, don’t go. Those notices aren’t suggestions! People really put themselves in danger by venturing into closed off trails. Plus, Visit Madeira also indicates the difficulty level of each levada.
Never hike alone. Even experienced hikers can slip, and it’s much easier to get help and locate you if someone’s with you. If you’re travelling solo to Madeira, book a guided tour. Local guides know the terrain, the weather patterns, and which paths to avoid after the rain. Besides, you’ll meet other fellow hikers!
Download offline maps, but don’t treat them as gospel. Madeira’s geography means that GPS accuracy is shaky. Some trails seem to be connected on the map, but they aren’t. Besides, it’s hard to take altitude into account on a flat map. Stick to marked trails and official levadas: going off-trail because “it looks interesting” is how a lot of scares start.
Plan your timing. Many short rails take longer than they look on a map because of the elevation gain and uneven terrain. Never underestimate short distances and try to figure out how long the hike will take. Then, start early and aim to be off the trail well before sunset. Hiking after dark, even with a headlamp, is risky.
Tell someone where you’re going. If you’re hiking alone, let your accommodation host, a friend, or even a guide company know which trail you’re taking and your expected return time. That way, rescue operations can start promptly if something goes wrong.
Bring proper gear. Sturdy hiking shoes, with an excellent grip, are essential. A rain jacket, extra water, snacks, and a charged phone can make a big difference if the weather turns.
Respect your limits. Don’t underestimate short distances. If you’re tired, turn back. If you’re afraid of heights, don’t challenge yourself. Madeira’s beauty isn’t going anywhere.
But hiking is Quitessential Madeira!
Madeira is a wonderful destination for nature lovers, and thousands people hike here safely every day. The trails are well-maintained, the locals are welcoming, and the island rewards anyone willing to explore on foot. But nature demands respect. If you’re hiking, take a few precautions. Check the conditions beforehand, avoid hiking alone, and stay on the marked routes. When in doubt, pick easier trails or book a guided tour. There are always options to save you from FOMO!