Gluten-Free Madeira: Where to Shop, Eat and Find Safe Food on the Island

Staying gluten-free always adds a little pressure to every holiday. Despite gluten-free options becoming popular in the last few years, coeliacs must avoid cross contamination – and that’s a whole other league.

But whether you’re a coeliac, travelling with one or simply gluten intolerant, I promise you that won’t compromise things for you in Madeira. Here are my tips for staying gluten free in Madeira!

First: Where to shop Gluten Free

I know a lot of coeliacs will only feel completely safe if they’re cooking and preparing most of their meals, or eating packaged snacks throughout the day. If that’s you, there are several places where you can find gluten free products in Madeira:

• every Pingo Doce and Continente supermarket has a “healthy food section” where you’ll find gluten free pastas, gluten free cookies and snacks, and gluten free pizza. Pingo Doce even has frozen gluten-free pastéis de nata, if you happen yo have an oven at your accommodation.

• Gluten Free Express at Rua das Mercês 9, in Funchal, is a small supermarket with gluten free goods brought over from the mainland. It’s a great place to buy traditional Portuguese products, like pastéis de nata and other cakes. The owner’s son has coeliacs, so it’s 100% safe.

• speciality stores like Celeiro and Plano D in Funchal also have quite a few gluten free options, including pastas and other snacks. Plano D also tends to have gluten free lunch options, although I can’t guarantee there will be no cross contamination. Ask the staff, they’re knowledgeable.

• Bioforma, with stores spread throughout the island, carries gluten free products as well. I find their selection less interesting that Celeiro’s or Plano D, but outside of Funchal is a good option. There’s even one in Porto Santo!

• Apães Gluten Free Bakery, although not an establishment, sells their breads in Viana Pastelaria, Ervanária das Madalenas, and Gela-tô. I suggest checking out their Instagram to find our where they are and, if you’re staying for a few days, even order your own gluten-free bolo do caco.

• Amora Ginja Frutaria, in Ribeira Brava’s Market, is one of the best bulk stores in the island. You’ll be able to find dried fruits, spices, quinoa, buckwheat, amaranth and other gluten free pseudo-cereals at a good price.

Second: which Madeira foods are gluten free?

Madeira’s most typical food consists in grilled meat (espetada) and grilled fish (tuna, scabbard fish, and other local fish). These are very, very unlikely to be cross contaminated with gluten. You only need to stay away from “filetes panados”, which are fried and have a sort of tempura. Stick to grilled proteins and you’ll be good.

Now, for the sides, you’ll be able to find fresh salads, vegetables, fries, gorgeous sweet potatoes, and rice everywhere. Vegetables tend to be local and not frozen, so any good restaurant will be able to avoid cross contamination. Frozen fries may not be 100% safe, so look for fries that look cut by hand. It won’t be hard.

What about milho frito?

Then there’s milho frito, which made out of cornmeal. Traditionally, this will be 100% gluten free. However, some restaurants may fry it along with other things that have wheat in it. My advice is to explain it clearly to restaurant staff, or go to a restaurant that’s well-known to be careful. You must try it before you leave!

Where can you eat gluten free in Madeira?

Mad Market at Estrada Monumental 384 has great reviews from coeliacs. They have main dishes, dessert and even gluten-free beer on their menu, so I’m sure you’ll be able to enjoy a good meal without having to worry about gluten.

X Tonel at Estrada Monumental 118, is a British-Madeiran venture (a labour of love) that has a dedicated gluten-free menu. This couple has been serving gluten free food for over 20 years with no complaints, so they’re as trustworthy as it gets when it comes to eating out gluten-free in Madeira.

Terra – Food Concept at Rua do Bispo 12 is one of my favourite places in Funchal for their vegetarian options. The staff here tend to be very careful, and they’ll check with the chef if there’s a doubt about intolerances. You’ll have 2-3 safe choices for a starter, main dish and dessert.

Cris Place, at Rua da Casa Branca nº34A, is well-known for catering to different dietary needs, including gluten-free. They have a modern take on traditional dishes, and can adapt with gluten-free bread and dairy-free cheese. Staff will mind even trace amounts, so you can relax from the starter to dessert.

Il Basilico, at Rua de Leichlingen 9, has several gluten-free pastas and risottos. I never tried gluten free options there, but Find me Gluten Free assures me the staff was very careful throughout and there’s even gluten-free pizza, which I didn’t know!

The Snug Smokehouse, at Rua do Hospital 36, is a central hamburger joint with hamburgers, burritos and bowls. I’m told they have gluten-free buns now, plus there are bowls with rice, so it’s a nice option near the Mercado dos Lavradors.

Década (Ribeira Brava) is a Venezuelan place with empanadas and arepas, all made with cornmeal. If you’re just staying gluten-free, it’s a great option. If you’re celiac, ask the staff to make sure there’s no cross-contamination with sauces or seasonings used in the fillings.

Hotel Saccharum (Calheta) is the only gluten-free certified hotel in Madeira by the Portuguese Association of Celiacs. Their Engenho, Garapa and Alambique restaurants should able to provide you a safe meal without traces of gluten or cross contamination, so it’s a great spot to keep in mind outside of Funchal.

Mesa Cultural (Porto Santo) is my favourite restaurant in Porto Santo and the only one I’d recommend to coeliacs. The chef and the staff are very knowledgeable so I’m sure they’ll be able to cater to your needs. Gluten free options include quinoa salads, lentil dahl, chickpea masala, chicken curry, duck confit, papadums, basmati rice, and their earth-shaterring coconut-pineapple panacotta.

Finally, McDonald’s and Burger King both have gluten free menus available. No one comes to Madeira to have these – or at least I hope not – but, as a last resort, if you’re arriving late, or if you want to order in, there’s always the comfort in knowing these two will have you covered.

Gluten free desserts in Madeira

Loja do Chá, at Rua do Sabão 33, offers several gluten-free and lactose-free cakes, including local chestnut cakes from Curral das Freiras. If you’re in for a middle of the day treat, this is the place to go.

Friic, in Fórum Madeira, is my absolute favourite place to get ice cream in Madeira. They have gluten-free and dairy free options made with Madeiran fruits. Try the guava, cherimoya and surinam cherry sorbets, along with dark chocolate or chocolate & hazelnut.

Veganaria, in Ponta do Sol, is one of my favourite delis in the whole island. They focus on cashew-based vegan cheese, and their weekly selection always includes at least one gluten free cheesecake. Open on Fridays and Saturdays only.