Câmara de Lobos: A Local Guide to Madeira’s Fishing Village
Nestled just west of Funchal on Madeira’s south coast, Câmara de Lobos is a traditional fishing village. The small natural bay filled with tiny, colourful boats, known as “xavelhas”, is one of Madeira’s postcards.
However, there’s more to Câmara de Lobos than fishing. Agriculture is still a big activity as well. In fact, Câmara de Lobos single handedly produces most of the grapes that are turned into the famous Madeira wine.
Despite fishing and agriculture, Câmara de Lobos has never been prosperous. In the beginning of the 20th century, the social housing built for fishermen was considered the poorest of such neighbourhoods in Europe.
Although that page has been turned, it’s not easy to break the intergenerational cycle of poverty. In the 90s, the city was ravaged by drug trafficking, as well as international child prostitution networks, begging scams, and petty crime.
There are still remnants of this hard life. Googling Câmara de Lobos, you’ll quickly find comments such as “rilled with homeless people” or “full of junkies”. But adjust your expectations – this is only by Madeira standards.
All in all, it’s a safe place to visit and to stay in, full of street art. The community is recovering, and there are dozens of events worth going to. So, without further ado, this is your guide to Câmara de Lobos!
What to Do in Câmara de Lobos
Stroll the harbour & old town: the old town and the harbour are the main attractions in Câmara de Lobos. Churchill came here in the 50s and made several paintings of the bay, which made it popular worldwide. There’s a statue honouring him, along with several street art initiatives that revitalised the old town. This is also where the town holds the São Pedro festivities in June, with tons of free concerts and vendors.
Viewpoints: The famous Cabo Girão viewpoint, standing on a cliff 580 meters above the sea, is in Câmara de Lobos. This is a must-do on almost any itinerary in Madeira (unless you’re afraid of heights!). Entrance to the skywalk now costs 3€, but you can purchase the tickets on site very quickly. There’s no need to book ahead.
Visit a vineyard: head up into hillside vineyards in Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, which extend from the sea to Jardim da Serra, at 600 m. If you want to understand better how hard it is to harvest grapes from these hillsides, on nearly vertical slopes, you can take this tour.
Where to Eat in Câmara de Lobos
Finding places locals genuinely rate highly makes all the difference. In Câmara de Lobos, O Polar (Rua Pico da Torre 26) is a popular spot both among locals and tourists for its espetadas (meat skewers on a laurel stick) and bolo do caco (a flatbread enriched with sweet potato).
If you’re vegetarian, please look into my list of best vegetarian restaurants in Madeira. You’ll find better options around the Praia Formosa area in Funchal, which is pretty close to Câmara de Lobos. Beer Garden serves a seitan-based picado, which is a typical dish, and there are several pizzerias and Indian restaurants with excellent vegetarian and vegan menus.
Is Câmara de Lobos a good Place to Stay in Madeira?
Câmara de Lobos is Madeira’s second biggest town. As such, it’s well connected to Funchal and to the expressway that will take you further inland. Therefore, if you have a car, it’s not a bad place to stay in Madeira. In fact, even private tours will often pick up passengers in Câmara de Lobos. So, in terms of connections to different parts of the island, it’s a good option. (If driving is out of the question, see here the most walkable areas of Funchal.)
However, even with a car, I believe Câmara de Lobos isn’t the best place to enjoy Madeira’s lifestyle and natural charm. If you’d rather stay in a quieter area, I’d suggest looking for accommodation in Ribeira Brava and Ponta do Sol. If you’re looking for a cheaper accommodation, look up some options on the North coast.
Practical Tips
Getting there: from Funchal, it’s a ~15-minute drive. If you’re relying on buses, look up Rodoeste.
Close to the old town/harbour, you’ll find arrumadores, which are people who stand by parking spots and help guide you in. It’s common practice to give them a small coin, like an euro or two, to avoid awkwardness or someone damaging your car.
Weather & terrain: as always in Madeira, comfortable shoes help. If you’re rising in altitude, dress in layers.
Final Thoughts on Câmara de Lobos
If your Madeira travel plan includes renting a car, Câmara de Lobos is a smart choice. You can explore the island, drink a poncha at the harbour by night, and avoid the most expensive hotels in Funchal. However, these savings come at a cost.